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Building fantastic relationships with people and brands across the South West is a huge part of what we do at Perfect Stays. With a keen eye on the food scene, we’re passionate about finding the very best restaurants for our guests during their holiday, and we know that first hand experiences make all the difference.
As 2025 welcomes Ugly Butterfly 2.0 and their relocation to North Cornwall's iconic The Headland Hotel, we’re reminiscing on our visit to Carbis Bay for a very special lunch. If you’re tempted to book a table, here’s what to expect from Adam Handling’s Cornish fine dining restaurant, no matter the coastline.
Nestled amongst the Carbis Bay Estate and sharing its home with a handful of our favourite restaurants (including Walter’s on the Beach), Ugly Butterfly first came to be in August 2021. Riding the post-Covid wave in its debut year and headed up by Great British Menu ‘Champion of Champions’ Adam Handling, the vision here is to prove that zero waste food can be beautiful.
A refreshing take for a restaurant with a Michelin-star chef at its helm, a trio of foodies from our Guest Coordination and Marketing teams arrived on a sunny Thursday lunchtime to see the mantra unfold.
Walking through the front doors, past the walk-in wine cellar and into the open plan bar-meets-snug, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve arrived in a stylish Cornwall speakeasy. The walls lined with bottled botanicals make a statement, the plush velvet chairs invite instant relaxation, but they don’t compare to the stunning ocean panorama that lies beyond the floor-to-ceiling glass. Miles of Cornish coastline stretch as far as the eye can see.
We take a moment to soak up the view while Nick introduces us to bartenders, Josh and Connor, who talk us through their imaginative cocktail menu. Shelf after shelf of jarred botanicals are on display, labelled “popcorn cordial”, “dandy liquor” and “butterfly flowers”. Everything in front of us is designed to be savoured, like the lemon husks, piths and peels that come from the Eden Project, 45 miles away in St Austell, to play a key part in their signature citrus drinks. Nick explains:
Before long, the sliding doors are whisked open and we’re invited into the main dining space. With the restaurant to ourselves, we take our seats front and centre, overlooking the white sands of Carbis Bay. Dog-friendly between October and May, this Blue Flag oasis is a must-visit spot for those holidaying in West Cornwall. It's loved for its calm swimming waters and seal-spotting opportunities, and sure enough, we were soon greeted by a resident pup bobbing its head above the blue. Delighting in its frolics, sommelier Steph tells us it's a common occurrence.
Meanwhile, the kitchen team are busy sharpening knives and polishing tweezers, ready for the intricacies of the lunchtime menu. Set across one level, the restaurant space is light, airy and beautifully designed – think chef’s table meets conceptual art gallery. Overhead, floral installations by Hayley Scott Blooms (a local florist based in Newquay) make it feel as whimsical as it is modern, with pampas flourishing from every angle to echo the table décor.
Steph guides us through the extensive cocktail menu, pointing out those that lend themselves to non-alcoholic mocktails (marked with an orange butterfly), and others that feature unique flavours like the sweat pea liqueur in their staff favourite “Dagworthy”. With one drink decided, we also opt for the coconut rum-based “Lost Gardens” and a “Kissing’s in Fashion” – made with mint stem soda, nasturtium and elderflower.
Glasses clinked, cocktails sipped, and views admired, it was time to eat. As you’d expect from a Michelin-star chef, the flavour and presentation of every dish was truly spectacular. Our three courses emerged from the kitchen, some enveloped in a cloud of dry ice, others alongside a tailored wine pairing, and all looking almost too good to eat.
Guided by Nick’s recommendations, we opted for a mix of vegetarian and pescatarian “snacks” – each one small, perfectly formed, and packing a punch. Our favourites included the crispy ricotta doughnuts, the intricate savoury tarts with green apple jelly and edible flowers, and a fairytale-esque St Ewe Egg custard with mushroom, croutons and chive. Served on a bed of straw, this dish was a real crowd pleaser, as the three ceramic eggs were flooded with dry ice once they reached the table. Waiting just out of sight to gauge our reaction, Nick admits:
The two courses that followed were equally delicious: a chilled artichoke main and a dark chocolate and honeycomb dessert, not forgetting a handmade whiskey chocolate to finish. A combination of alcoholic and non-alcoholic sparkling wines made for an extra special lunch, with insightful tasting notes from Steph providing context about each glass’s flavour profile and region.
Nevertheless, what made our lunch so memorable was the expertise in which it was served. Every waiter, pastry chef and sommelier knew the pinpoint details of what made each dish unique, the recommended order in which to enjoy them, and which part of Cornwall the ingredients were sourced from. Theatrics aside, it’s clear that the chefs behind these dishes are truly passionate about the quality of ingredients, and how they can minimise food waste with every dish.
Handling’s team are young and passionate, with 24-year-old head chef Connor Blades leading the charge in his newly appointed position. He already has substantial accolades under his belt, most notably UK Young Chef of the Year 2021, so expect big things from Ugly Butterfly’s future.
We couldn’t slip away without passing on our thanks to Nick, Steph and Connor for looking after us so well. The insights we’ve come away with for our guests are second-to-none, and there were a few welcome surprises along the way: • Menus can be a la carte, or diners are welcome to mix and match to make their experience more bespoke, with specific flavours on request. • You can book for weddings, functions and large groups for semiprivate dining. The team open up the dining space to make way for tables of up to 18.
As sustainability, locality and luxury dining remains the core ethos’ at the heart of Ugly Butterfly, The Headland Hotel is a perfectly aligned venue for a quintessentially British experience. With their mission to break down the boundaries of conventional ‘fine dining’, indulge in the best produce the South West has to offer at your leisure, from the the sweeping sea-view terrace or breathtaking restaurant.
Image credits: First image set © John Hersey Studio | All other images are our own.
When she's not out for a roast by the coast, Sophie loves exploring with her husband and their golden retriever pup, Obi. She writes about all things Cornwall and is a strong believer that there’s no such thing as too many house plants.
Loved by Women's Health and featured in The Telegraph as the ultimate party house, Shun Lee is a magnificent property with unparalleled views across St Ives Bay. Nestled within beautiful landscaped gardens and a short walk from several sandy beaches, it boasts bespoke interiors and prestigious entertaining spaces, including a private cinema. The house is a breath-taking setting for holidays and celebrations.
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